Montana Sauvignon Blanc 1989 Wholesale Price $80.00 Reasons for which we should all be thankful have prompted the management of New Zealand’s largest winery, Montana, to keep the price of their prized Sauvignon Blanc down to a level almost as attractive as the wine itself. When prices of many wines, local and imported have scaled heights that can best be described as opportunistic, Montana deserve all the support they can find. Montana’s sauvignon blanc was the first to climb onto the bandwagon that has since become an international roller-coaster. Sauvignon blancs from the land of the long white Cloudy Bay are today recognised as a unique wine, quite distinct from those made in California, Australia and the French regions of the Loire Valley and Bordeaux. It is also plausible to suggest that those from the Marlborough region are superior to other New Zealand sauvignon blancs. The style has achieved a great deal in a space of around fifteen years. It owes much to the 1986 Montana Sauvignon Blanc, which rightly won huge international acclaim and is still drinking reasonably well today. Montana have stated that although they recognise their sauvignon blanc to be their flagship wine, they will not price it out of the reach of most wine drinkers. You should also recognise that the wine itself is made in a surprisingly large volume for its undoubted quality, and an excessive price could also highlight the present quality gap between it and Montana’s next best wine. As most wineries are apt to do in this time of extreme competition, Montana rate their latest vintage as their best yet. They have a point, however, for the 1989 season was remarkably warm and consistent for the chilly New Zealand region of Marlborough, close to the northern tip of the South Island. Although still showing some clear signs of youthful inbalance, the wine is unquestionably a winner. Mind you, you have to like the style. Like several New Zealand producers of this variety, Montana are working to restrain the intense grassiness that can almost verge on a tom cat pong, which without extreme care will usually dominate their wine. For some reason or other, the presence of this most un-vinous quality is highly rated in Europe, especially in England. The 1989 vintage is still quite grassy and asparagus-like, but I don’t find it offensive in the least. With its equally intense gooseberry and passionfruit-like aromas, the wine will challenge those who wish it to complement delicate food – it packs a punch. The palate is long and even, full of flavour. It finishes clean and dry, without the obvious sweetness occasionally still found in many ‘dry’ New Zealand whites. As I have indicated, it is a fine example of its unique style. Montana are first to admit they have a long way to go with sauvignon blanc. I hope I will still be around when they reckon they’ve arrived. I would serve the Montana Sauvignon Blanc 1989 with stronger-flavoured seafood dishes, roast veal and pork, fresh garden salads, ripe cheese and fruit. The only danger I foresee at the present time is that with such intensity of flavour without genuine complexity, the wine could easily steamroll more delicate, complex foods.
