2002 marks thirty years since Dr Peter McMahon began developing one of the Yarra Valley’s signature vineyards, Seville Estate. Since they sold to Brokenwood, Peter and Margrett McMahon are no longer involved in the business, but both attended the launch of the winery’s new 2000 Reserve Old Vine Shiraz. A tasting of various back vintages of shiraz showed a significant movement towards a more structured wine, although one of the highlights was an astonishingly lively and well preserved 1976 Shiraz, made from young vines but cropped at very low levels. The 2000 Reserve Shiraz (18.7, drink 2008-2012+) is substantially more oaky and concentrated than anything Peter McMahon would have made, but its low yield, creamy texture and bright core of deep fruit suggests it will settle back into a fine expression of terroir and site typicite. It’s anything but spicy and overly peppery, but is deeply expressive of plums, blueberries and cassis, with hints of prunes and jamminess from a small proportion of very ripe fruit. I can also pass an unqualified recommendation in favour of the vineyard’s succulent, finely textured and flavoured 2001 Reserve Pinot Noir. Despite being bottled just two weeks prior to tasting, I’m prepared to state that it’s handsomely the best pinot ever to come from this rated maker, and one of the best Yarra Valley pinots of recent years. Sourced from the estate’s original plantings plus another off Maddens Lane, only 130 dozen of the wine was made, and it will be a full year prior to release. Start arranging your order now.
