David Powell has recently released his latest red wines, covering the three most recent Barossa vintages. As ever, each of the wines with the exception of The Factor – where Powell tends to let the Barossa do most of the talking – reveal a thoroughly distinctive and individual expression of what the Barossa would perhaps produce more of had it been located in the southern Rhone Valley. The 1999 RunRig is a shade below the release from the exceptional 1998 vintage, while in my opinion it’s The Factor from 1999 that steals the show. The collection is faithfully consistent to the themes Powell has already established for each of his labels. Like them before and you’ll love these; hate them before and don’t waste your dollar. Back to the white coat for you! The Juveniles 2001 (16.8, drink 2001-2002) is a readily approachable, sweet-fruited and complex early-drinking grenache-mataro-shiraz blend whose intense raspberry/plum fruit is matched in character by earthy, farmyard and almost leathery complexity. It finishes lively and savoury, but lacks great length. Depending on your attitude, you might find the brettanomyces influences excessive. The Descendant 2000 (17.6, drink 2002-2005) is made from shiraz that has been pressed onto viognier skins. Again, its rustic, farmyard and savoury characters are unquestionably enhanced by a relatively high pH plus obvious reductive and bret influences. However, it’s spicy and aromatic, with floral viognier-derived aromas, with fresh cherry/cassis fruit underneath. Soft and smooth, it’s a wine for a rich meaty casserole of a decent lump of Reggiano. There’s more refinement and style about The Steading 2000 (18.2, drink 2005-2008), Powell’s best blend of grenache, mataro and shiraz. It’s distinctively floral and fragrant, with earthy, stony rose garden aromas, all packed with spices and piercing red berry fruit. Smooth and creamy, fine and silky, it’s long and supple, a beautifully poised wine with fine tannins and a long, savoury finish. The Factor 1999 (19.2, drink 2007-2011+) is opulent, heady Barossa shiraz of true pedigree, which means it has the structure, balance and integrity to last beyond its first flush of youth. Deep cassis and raspberry fruit is carefully matched with spicy, smoky vanilla and chocolate oak, backed by a suggestion of bitumen, molasses and sweet leather. It’s plush and concentrated, with wonderful length of bright, perfectly ripened fruit before an assertive, but harmonious finish of firm tannin. The RunRig 1999 (19.3, drink 2007-2011) is a finely tuned but concentrated classic whose velvet-smooth palate opens with layer after layer of pure fruit character. It’s heady and voluptuous, rich and textured, already dangerously smooth and approachable. Black pepper, spiced plums, intense cassis – it has the lot, richly endowed with quality oak. It hides its power well.
