As the 1998 vintage steps into full gear, it’s time for the Australian wine industry to hold its nerve. With no end in sight to the Asian financial crisis, the largest US vintage in history and a swelling intake of Australian-grown chardonnay, it’s time for those who developed Strategy 2025 to prove they have what it takes to implement their vision. As this issue introduces, local chardonnay is already back in 4-litre casks, while chardonnay prices are under pressure on the open market. It’s in nobody’s interests for a repeat of the traditional boom-bust cycle so often witnessed in Australian wine, especially as there’s so much more of it than ever before. In the light of all this it’s somewhat concerning to hear of a new-found cockiness amongst certain Australian exporters, linked with a head-in-the-sand approach to the potential threats posed by export competitors. Australian wine can ill afford to be perceived as arrogant and inward looking by its markets. This issue draws attention to two encouraging new aspects in Australian wine: the emergence of De Bortoli Yarra Valley as a fully-fledged maker of premium wine and the ongoing resurgence of riesling as a popular variety. As John Vickery, the legendary riesling maker and subject of this issue’s interview says, there’s much to do before riesling fulfils its potential but at least wine drinkers are talking about it again. My advice is to buy as many of the terrific wines from 1997 as you can. I introduce a nationwide list of best releases. Either that, or consider growing it yourself. Honestly? Winemaking consultant Gary Baldwin offers 1.4 million reasons why it might still be cheaper to buy your wine from the shelf. And if you do decide to make your own wine, how much will you first consider the balance between site selection, variety and winemaking technique? Is wine just an expression of where it’s grown, or can a half-decent winemaker manufacture any desired style of wine if given the equipment? Given the amount of nonsense spouted around the globe on the terroir-technique debate, I thought I’d put up my hand to suggest a more balanced approach than that which the emotionally charged terroirists and technocrats are presently offering. Jeremy Oliver.
