These days whenever I’m asked to speak about wine it’s inevitable that someone will ask whether or not the rapidly increasing prices of Australia’s leading wines are an accurate reflection of their quality. While it’s still possible to put a convincing case for the affirmative, it’s going to be harder if the price hikes seen over the last few years continue for much longer at their present rate. One thing’s for certain, the number of Australian wines now priced over $40 per bottle has caused a large number of once-diehard buyers of exclusively Australian wine to reconsider their options. The evidence is all around. More quality retailers are stocking more imported wines and selling them at some very competitive prices. The only thing right now that’s saving the premium Australian wine industry from a real dogfight is the declining fortune of our currency, another factor that must bring smiles to the faces of those selling Australian wine in several very competitive European, Asian and American markets. Having recently returned from five weeks exploring European wine regions and markets, it’s clear that Australian winemakers can ill afford to take lightly their competition from worlds old and new. In most serious English wine outlets, the space given to premium South African wines almost equals that of our own. Australia is still regarded by key members of the English wine media and trade as a step ahead of its competition in both the making and marketing of its wines, but there is no special loyalty in the United Kingdom directed towards Australia or anyone else. Once somebody does better what we’re presently doing, then they’ll switch affections overnight. This issue of OnWine is almost exclusively devoted to European wine, especially those of Burgundy, Bordeaux and Tuscany. When we live half a world from the traditional homes of wine, it’s easy to think we’re the only people at the cutting edge. When more Australians regularly experience imported wines at all points of the market, we’ll be better placed as consumers and makers to decide how much we’re prepared to pay for our own wines. While our better makers will still only benefit from the comparison, there are plenty out there who could use a decent scare or two. Jeremy Oliver.
