Hot on the heels of the provocatively packaged Azure Bay concept from New Zealand comes an Australian copy from Cowra Estate, whose new Cool Classic Chardonnay is bottled in a remarkably similar electric blue bottle. Those insufficiently deterred by the garish package, which also incorporates a C-shaped hologram and a seascape, will encounter a deliciously refreshing and lightly oaked chardonnay by Simon Gilbert (score 16.2), for a squeak under $10. Working on the theory that nobody ever went broke by under-estimating the taste of the public at large, the wine is likely to be a runaway success.
