Not many wine drinkers have heard of Narkoojee. Three weeks ago, I hadn’t either. Yet I’m in no doubt whatsoever that this will become one of the most sought after of small Victorian vineyards. Harry Friend is a former civil engineer who, having ‘retired’ in 1994, is now fully occupied by his 5.5 acre vineyard at Glengarry, in Gippsland. A self-taught winemaker, he has not worked for other winemakers, but has mucked around with winemaking in a Melbourne backyard since 1984. All of which makes his wines all the more remarkable. Evenly divided between chardonnay and the cabernet varieties (65% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 10% cabernet franc), the vineyard produces a varietal Chardonnay and a Cabernets and Merlot. If the 1995 vintage is a guide, the chardonnay captures intense flavours and fashions remarkable intensity all along the palate. The red blend is a fine, smooth and supple wine, with fine tannins and suggestions of mint. Best vintages are 1993 and 1991, but none is presently for sale. Harry Friend is just releasing the 1995 Chardonnay now. The telephone number for Narkoojee is 051 924 257.
