Joe Grilli has a knack of thinking up the most drinkable ideas. One of his best is simply sold as the ‘Joseph Fronti IV’ and comprises just 340 cases of half bottles of this thoroughly delicious thing, described by its maker, not without good reason, as being a cross between an Australian liqueur muscat, a madeira and a Vin Santo. It’s more than fifteen years in average age, not as thick and cloying as a Rutherglen muscat – as superlative as they can be – and has a more savoury, lightly spirity and nutty, drier finish. At $43 retail approx., it’s a fine thing to give, receive or simply to open. Don’t be afraid to chill it.
