While Italian plantings of cortese are on the decline, its area under vine has swelled dramatically in Australia. That is to say, somebody has planted it. That somebody is small Victorian winery Lost Valley, found near Strath Creek in the high country of central Victoria, whose 2000 Cortese (17.8, drink 2001-2002+) was Australia’s first wines from this grape. Only a few cases were and will ever be made of this wine, whose maker is Alex White of Lillydale Vineyards fame. Clean and brightly flavoured with dusty nutmeg and cinnamon spices, pear, apple and peach, it’s long and savoury, with a refreshingly nutty finish and bright acids. It’s hard to find now, and its price of $28 direct was just a little above representing great value, but make a note of this name if you’re interested in the next 2001 release. The winery can be reached at http://www.lostvalleywinery.com.
