Although I’m frequently asked about the merits of white varieties other than the obvious ones like chardonnay, riesling, sauvignon blanc et al, it doesn’t often occur to me to include arneis in my answer. Given its extreme scarcity I believe I can be forgiven to some extent, but having tasting yet another fine, flavoursome example from Garry Crittenden, sooner or later I’m going to have to remember it actually exists. Arneis, for those of you who aren’t familiar with the grape, is an almost-extinct variety from Italy’s northwest. Grown in what many are hoping to become the southern hemisphere’s answer to Italy, the King Valley, the Garry Crittenden Arneis 2003 (the fifth vintage released to date) is fuller and rounder than its predecessors, product of a vintage that led to bushfires not all that far away. What it might lack in customary delicacy, it certainly makes up in terms of generous, punchy apple, pear and peach flavours, framed by a pleasingly austere mineral finish. It’s generous, a little fatty and viscous, but cleans up on the palate rather well. There’s a touch of underlying phenolic, but the fruit ably carries it. I like it, and rate it at a very drinkable 17.1 out of 20. That’s good value and enjoyable summer drinking for around $24.
