Verdelho hasn’t exactly exploded on the Australian wine scene, despite getting off to a wonderful kick-start in the mid 1980s with delicious and very affordable wines from Sandalford and Moondah Brook. In fact, there are very few small makers who specialise in this grape, one of whom is David Traeger, whose style over ten years has gradually shed sweetness and oak. The 1999 David Traeger Verdelho (18.0, drink 2004-2007) sports a pungent, musky nose with lime/lemon scents and a juicy, bright palate bursting with excellent length of gooseberry fruit before a clean, refreshing finish. Of course it drinks well in its youth, but they do gain great richness and character with age.
