Matthew Moran’s new restaurant at Bennelong Point is fairly and squarely aimed at the top dining dollar and its wine list has been assembled with the idea in mind to capture the top drinking dollar as well. The expected options are all there: a sound range of Champagnes, especially vintage and prestige cuvees, plus a snazzy looking Penfolds reserve listing of red wines, many of whose entries, like the Block 42 Kalimna Cabernet Sauvignon from 1996, should never be included on a serious list at this tender stage in their development. Patrons wishing to try a range of wines might be disappointed in a rather thin selection of wines served by the glass, but would perhaps be heartened by a broad range of half-bottles. Although the table wine choices at Aria reflect discrimination and understanding of what’s hot and about in Australia at the moment, they also present a reasonable selection of lesser-known Burgundian domaines, a modest depth of Bordeaux reds, a nodding acquaintance with the wines of Italy, plus a number of curve-balls from sought-after vineyards in the US, New Zealand and other French regions. The list is easily navigable, does include a decent sprinkling of older vintages throughout and even if there is an inescapable formulaic feeling to it, should easily acquaint you with a wine you very badly want to drink.
