Clonakilla Viognier 1998

Clonakilla has become a significant -Ę in terms of both size and quality -Ę producer in the Murrumbateman (Canberra) wine region that has pioneered the C™te-R™tie-styled expression of shiraz and viognier blend in Australia. Even while ,Clonakilla typically adds more viognier to this blend than most producers in C™te-R™tie would choose, it has certainly creating a definitive expression in the process. It's perhaps unsurprising that Clonakilla has fashioned the most serious rival to its own wine in the rather smaller production run of Syrah, a single fermenter from the property's north-east facing T and L vineyard. Made by fermenting whole berries with indigenous yeasts, it's given 15 months in small French oak (1/3 new) and typically delivers a remarkable combination of richness, structure, complexity and savoury qualities. With four exemplary first-up releases, I had to give it 5 stars! Clonakilla's exemplary Riesling -Ę typically vibrant, perfumed and pristine in its delivery of almost essential varietal flavour -Ę stamps it as one of the reasons why more riesling enthusiasts are turning to the Canberra region, itself a home of some first-rate riesling vineyards of true maturity. If I have a concern about Clonakilla's key red wines, it's that I'm watching a trend towards the more ethereal. This is ok but for one major issue -Ę that if you reduce fruit weight and intensity, you need to back off also on the more stalky and herbal elements to avoid them dominating the wines. The wines that made Clonakilla's name were several notches more layered and packed with fruit than its contemporary releases.