Yarra Yering Chardonnay 2023

Yarra Yering is historically one of the most important producers in the Yarra Valley and was one of the first to set up during the revival phase of the early 1970s. I have long been a fan of Yarra Yering, and well remember my first introduction to its eccentric founder, Dr Bailey Carrodus, more than thirty years ago, the start of a very interesting relationship indeed. For a variety of reasons, Yarra Yering's quality has ridden up and down the elevator. At their best, and as my scores illustrate, they are nothing short of sublime. However, in the seasons following the sale to the group that also owns Kaeslar in the Barossa Valley, there was rather an inconsistent ride indeed. Their first releases were from the smoke-tainted 2007 vintage and I rated them accordingly. Then followed an excellent season of classic Yarra Yering wines from 2008, before another smoke-tainted season in 2009, whose wines I am yet to taste. I have however tasted a few of the 2010 vintage releases, from one of the finest Yarra vintages in the last three decades. In my mind, these wines were adversely affected by what appears to me to be poor winemaking technique and some questionable viticulture. Following the arrival of Sarah Crowe from Brokenwood, Yarra Yering's star appeared ready to rise to the top, with some excellent wines from 2014 and 2015. However recent releases -  including those from the 2019 vintage -  reveal some issues I believe relate to technique and style. Stylistically it would appear there is a reluctance to build the layers of fruit and structure of which the vineyard is undoubtedly capable, and I find the nature and the assertiveness of the often green-edged acids of recent vintages to be profoundly excessive and out of balance.